• I have owned for the past four years a low mileage unrestored and original 1936 Morris 12/4 fixed head coupe. I am only the third owner. This car is frequently admired at rallies but my comments have invariably been "It's a devil to drive, I am never quite sure which direction it is going in next".
• The first clue to the trouble was when Peter Bowen kindly sent me an extract from from a 1933 'Motor' magazine describing the function of the Wilmot Stabilising bumper , previously I found difficult to believe that a bumper could have anything to do with the steering.
• On removing the bumper assembly I discovered that an important packing piece between a chassis bolt and flat spring had been replaced by a crudely shaped ineffective piece of wood , thereby causing the flat spring to serve no useful purpose, also the nuts holding the lead weights to the end of the springs were loose, canceling any benefit from the bumper bar. All this has been rectified with an almost unbelievable improvement in steering and handling.
• After reading Peter Jupes letter I checked the Morris, the thick ends of the wedges were to the front. I double checked on a complete spare front suspension and steering assembly that I have, again the thick ends were to the front.
• Finally I found a description of Castor Angle in an early volume of Arthur W Judge's "The Modern Motor Engineer" and sure enough it confirms that the thin end should be at the front, i.e. The action is different to what I had believed, the wheels are pushed into line and not dragged as they are on furniture. The wedges have now been reversed with an even greater improvement in steering, so much so that I can enjoy the fantastic Welsh scenery instead of battling with a lively monster. One cannot help wondering if someone on the original assembly line also thought on my lines.

Arnold Sheldon- Llandysul, Dyfed

• It seems that most people know how to correctly fit a new flywheel ring gear, but many have trouble removing the old gear. The easiest method is to hacksaw from the base of one gear tooth as far as possible, without actually cutting into the flywheel, then, with a chisel in the sawcut, split the ring gear open. These gears should never be hammered off

• I found the article on spring problems quite interesting , as in almost every case that I have heard of where Denzo tape has been used to bind up the springs, when it has finally been removed there has been a broken leaf or leaves. I am not qualified to explain, but have always wondered if they have been bound to hide the breaks in the first place!
• Recently I changed the rear springs on my own very hard working Series I saloon, which have been on since 1984 and have done about 90,000 miles, expecting to have to have them reconditioned. I was surprised to find that they were in exceptionally good condition, with only one eye showing signs of wear, and that not sufficient to warrant any attention. They have now been fitted to a car that is being rebuilt.
• Maintenance during this time has been more or less regular greasing of the shackles and the very occasional clean with an oily rag, usually before the Club's International Rally. In all this time I have never had a spring break, despite the car often being very heavily laden. Crown wheel and pinion, yes, springs, no.
• Norman Linsley